Thoroughly confused now.

[CraigSkiles]

I am working on killing my 3rd battery. I need to do something here. Starting the car shutting it down starting the car shutting it down is not very helpful.
I figure the compression ratio of the engine is very close to 10.3:1 - 10.5:1 .
I am using a battery for a 350 and a stock 350 starter on my 400 block.
What is happening is the the battery will only crank the engine over maybe about 5-6 times, then just barely turn the engine over (I can't tell you how frustrating this is when the car doesnt start on either of the tries). While the battery is draining and not turnign the engine any more I hear this low pitch buzzing sound coming from the starter. The solenoid which is relocated is getting extremly hot.
So I start looking in a Jegs catalog and see like maybe 7-8 different starters each with a different rating on amps being pulled and gear ratios. I am confused and dont ahve a clue where to go from here.
The best part about all this is that I had a mini starter back when but heard you didnt need it cause the stock OEM would fit witht he Hooker Headers. So I returned it. :(

Any suggestions a good starter?

Thanks,
Craig

[irocbsa]

Craig, I know this sounds crazy but how old is that starter??? I know it wasn't a 400 but I used a stock, AC Delco starter on the IROC (10.2:1 compression) and it would turn the engine over perfectly and it lasted for over 2 years. Just tossing ideas here..........

[ May 07, 2002, 15:40: Message edited by: irocbsa ]

[SportCoupe]

CVR Protorque Racing Starter $146
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=7045&prmenbr=76

I have one and it is turning over my 10:1 383 no problem for a couple years now. Hard to beat the price for a mini gear reduction starter.

I would make sure you don't have too much advance first, that will cause SLOW cranking too. It free to check.

[mrr23]

irocbsa - not cool on the pic in the sig. need to drop the issue man.

[CraigSkiles]

Just using a stock ProStart replacement from Advance. New one at that. New battery as of yesterday.
Figure I was going to get an Optima for relaocting the battery at some point in time, might as well get it now and see how it does. Then move on to the starter.

Thanks for the link John.

Craig

[Jim]

Craig, You may want to take the starter back for testing. I am a store manager for Advance. And they can check the amperage pull of the starter (on or off of the car). Sound's to me like its pulling to many amp's causing the solenoid to overheat

[CraigSkiles]

Jim,
I can only mange to get about 6-9 starts on the starter before having to recharge the battery. Can that kill a starter or would that be a defect in the starter...

[WS6 VERT]

You know what, MRR23??? Since you take it apon yourself to pollute this message board with your crap, you are outta here. First of all, this does not concern you. It is not a picture of your car, you, anything you own, nor does it hinder your lifestyle. So you shoudn't even be worried about it. Second, its not my sig, so you shouldn't be emailing me. Not my problem. If you would have taken it up personally with the person you had a problem with, that would have been cool, but since you just had to reply to almost every one of his posts (most of which have been deleted), C-YA

[ May 07, 2002, 00:03: Message edited by: BTripp ]

[My89CamaroRS]

I am running a 60 over 400 with 11.5:1, stock starter, and battery located in the trunk. The battery has lasted for many years. I run Super Comp headers and I was having starter problems do to the heat until I installed a remote soleniod. I also had to make sure I had a good ground.

[Jeremey]

Keep them in line B!

[ragtop88]

Almost forgot to post this...this is taken from an email i saved from the TTA list and has some info on where to get some factory mini starters ..

............................
Speaking of Starters, I dont know what that part number relates to but
www.turbobuicks.com (http://www.turbobuicks.com) is selling LT1 starters complete with the correct bolts
for $125 bucks. The stock starter weighs 18.5lbs and the LT1 weighs 8.5lbs
so a good 10lbs saving off the front of the car. Then the other night I saw
my LT1 friends buying LT4 starters new for $145 bucks and they weigh even
less. Here is a quick link..

http://wilson.2ya.com/lt4_starter
..........................
I'm using the LT1 version i picked up before seeing this and have nad no problems....this was even before with the other heads when i was running 10.2:1....hth

[CraigSkiles]

Jeremey,
Whatch yourself, people might start getting upset agian. smile.gif

Thanks for the suggestions. Right now the plan of attack is to go ahead and get a ground to the frame and block. Then have the starter tested just to make sure.

Then test at the fuse block to see if there is a drain anywhere (which I could use some help on how to do, please talk to me as if I am a 3rd grader :D ).

Then go from there.

Thanks,
Craig

[Jim]

Craig, Sounds to me like a defect in the starter.
I would drive the car back to Advance, And have them test the starter on the car. they can test starter, load test the battery, and test for a draw all in a matter of minute's with the ARBST. tester they have. I would say you probally have a field shorting in the starter.If you keep having problems out of the starter take it back and have them get you a genuine AC Delco. They can get the same thing as you would get at the dealer but at alot lower cost.

[CraigSkiles]

Had the starter tested today. 12 volts & 130 amps. They said it was fine.

So I will work on getting a better ground to the block before going further with this.

Thanks for the help.

Craig

[Mike Carter]

Craig, have you done a voltage drop test yet? Does it do this when the starter is cold, or after the car has been running?

[CraigSkiles]

Don't know how to do a voltage drop test.

This happens when I try to start it period, hot or cold.

Craig

[Hank 87 Iroc Z28]

Craig,

Sounds like you have something wired wrong, especially if the solenoid is still trying to engaage the starter. Should be a real simple circuit.

On the rest of the electrical circuits put an ammeter in line with the ground and look for the current flow with everything plugged up. A small amount of flow (in milliamps) is ok. Then pull the fuses one at a time and watch to see if the load goes away. If after pulling the fuses the load is still there you will have to remove the fuseable links one at a time to see what circuit has the drain. Come by the house and we can do it.

[CraigSkiles]

Well I got a good lesseon in grounding. Iroc will start up fine with the stock starter. smile.gif

[irocbsa]

Wow, glad you got it figured out Craig. Whew.... smile.gif