Starting problems again

[CraigSkiles]

Ok so now I got an Optima battery to start this thing. Redid my ground and and I am happy to say that the ohms reading from the negative post on the battery to the alt casing is 0. iut started up several times with no problems what so ever.
Until yesterday. Now I can only get about 3 starts off the battery before it is drained. The positive lead and the negative leads at the battery are both extremly hot, instead of just the positive lead as before with the bad ground.

Am I killing the starter?.. Still the stock starter.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

[WS6 VERT]

Did we ever establish how many Amps the starter is pulling? What is the compression ratio of your engine? Maybe you need a gear reduction starter...

[CraigSkiles]

Never checked to see what the amps was, need help in how to do that. And the compression of the engine is about 10.3:1.

Thanks

[ragtop88]

i started my engine with a stock starter back when it was about 10.2:1 so the stock starter should be able to start it.....i went to the LT1 starter when i installed the T56....actually a little before that. Have you verified the alternator is charging your battery while it is running?

[CraigSkiles]

I am pretty sure its charging the battery, but I am only letting the car run maybe 3-5 mitnues each time. Like this evening I walked out to the car and the battery was fully charged and I installed a new set of plugs. Once done I started the car. As soon as I turned the key the engine started right up. The seoconfd time I started the car up it Started right up liek the firs time. The 3rd and 4th time I tried to start tit the starter was sort of struggling to turn the engnine over, but then would spee dup and the engine would start. The fifth time this evening. The starter would just barely turn the engine over but not enough to start it.

My Helm tells me to measure voltage from the negative post on the battery to the engine block. This supposed ot be less than .5 volts. If it is more than .5 volts then replace the battery cable.
Then measure the volts from the positive post to the starter solenoid terminal B, this should also be less than .5 volts. If not then replace that positive battery cable.
Then measure across the negative baterry terminal to the postivie battery terminal which should be greater than 9.5 volts. If not test battery.
If all the all above tests correctly then I should take the starter out for testing and repair.

Is there anything else I might have missed??..

[CraigSkiles]

OKIE DOKIE. I did the above tests and the battery dropped to about 10.3 volts while starting. The positive lead on the battery to the b terminal on the solenoid was .45 volts. The negative lead from the battery to the alt casing was .7+ volts. According tot he last post I made above I need a new ground cable.
What I don't get is why am I having a problem when I am showing 0 ohms from the negative lead on the battery to the alt casing??.... Could be a simple thing as increasing in gauge size for the negative cable??..

Thanks,

[WS6 VERT]

What I don't get is why am I having a problem when I am showing 0 ohms from the negative lead on the battery to the alt casing Its called voltage drop. Thats the reason they have you measure it like that instead of measureing resistance. When the DMM measures resistance, it sends a very small voltage through the leads and measures how much returns. This voltage is very low and the amperage is like 0. Now compare that, to the 12-13 system volts, and lots more amps, it can make resistance in a circuit really show up. Checking voltage drop in automotive circuits can really save you. Alot of times when things like blower motors won't work due to poor connections, you can measure 12V right at the motor, but if you use a test light, it will NOT illuminate. The volt meter requires no Amps, therefore can read the voltage. As soon as you load it down w/ the test lamp, the resistance just becomes too much and you loose continuity.

Definatly find out why you have excessive voltage drop in the cable, maybe take a wire brush to all the connections...

[ June 20, 2002, 00:13: Message edited by: DenaliTech ]

[87kevroc]

I agree with Mr. DenaliTech’s analysis. If correct, then the battery is being overworked. It has to overcome the resistance in the ground cable as well as power the solenoid and starter while cranking.

A friend had a problem somewhat similar with his boat. Turned out his connections to the battery and ground were fine. The problem was the crimp where the cable attached to one of the connectors. Definitely replace the ground cable. It’s cheap and easy and if it does not solve the problem, will at least eliminate another possible point of failure.

[CraigSkiles]

Thanks for the responces. Only thing I can think of now would be to try and get a larger gauge ground cable. The one on the car now is brand new, along with the alternator, the battery, the remote solenoid, and stock starter....I know I got a good contact for the ground on the block cause I removed the bracket sanded the block in that area and the area on the bracket. Maybe run to ground leads to the block from the battery?...

Thanks,